Mystical men and Christmas in Dushanbe

I sit silent in the darkness of our street without electricity, six candles burning on the breakfast table and a copy of the book I am reading “Young Stalin” by Simon Sebag Montefiore, in a world far from the conventions and hedonism of Christmas. I like this peaceful moment in my five layers of multi-colored clothing, two pairs of socks, hat and scarf (the only exposed areas are my eyes, fingertips and the tip of my nose). It is a week before Christmas, the air is still and misty, and I think, though I may be wrong, that snow is on its way.

Curious events have occurred over the last two weeks, leaving emotions that are difficult to contain and even more difficult to express. On Friday, 9th December, the concilium members decided that Rafiq should be given a chance of treatment for drug-resistant TB, and, if after 3 weeks he did not improve, we would re-consider the diagnosis. An unexpected decision and one that was not easy for any of the panel members. Given the potential consequences, this was a brave decision. Rafiq is a sick child and one has to justify every action, because any action could be the one that is fatal to him. His mother has withered from caring for her son who is still slowly deteriorating after 11 months in hospital. She remains faithful to the God she knows, praying relentlessly in Rafiq’s room, a reflection of her love for her son and her duty to her faith, meshed in an unquestioned manner. In this medicine of uncertainties, both the doctor and I explain to Rafiq’s mother the realities as we see them: the diagnosis is not certain but given what we know of the history and ruling out as many differentials as possible (we are still waiting on one more test), this is likely to be drug- resistant TB. If he does not receive treatment, he will not improve on his own (I cannot use any more transparent words, but she knows what we mean). If he receives what we hope is the appropriate treatment, he may survive or he may not tolerate the toxicity of the drugs. Her response – “there is no other option.” This was the informed consent that Rafiq’s mother signed.

On Saturday, we started Rafiq on a cocktail of five medicines, a combination that will hopefully kill the TB bacilli. He looked terrible the day we started him on treatment, his jugular throbbing at the neck, the machinery of his heart straining with resistance and ribs exposed with every inhaled breath he took. His right lung full of fluid pushes down on his liver and the fluid in his belly pushes against the diaphragm and how his tiny frame copes with this is quite phenomenal. I don’t think he fully understands the treatment and I have no idea what he makes of our tall worried looks but when we tell him we will start some new medicine, he looks at us with distrust, his head flexed into his pounding chest.

I speak about Rafiq to Junie, one of the new members of the team, a slightly nutty but brilliant woman, who the kids adore. I hope she can explain to Rafiq a little about TB and why it needs to be treated. The kids call her “mualima” meaning teacher in Tajik. She writes a little story to explain to the younger ones what TB means. Our tall office assistant or “aka” (big brother to the kids) narrates the story to Rafiq and the others:

TB was a furry and naughty little germ. One day TB played a trick and made himself so tiny that no one could see him. He thought it was fun to hide. The wind was blowing hard and TB decided to catch the wind as it was blowing by. It was fun to fly up high and then swoop down low on the wind. TB flew very close to some children who were playing near-by. One of the children took a deep breath in, and TB quickly popped into his mouth. TB started to make mischief inside his body, making him feel very hot, then making him cough, then making him feel very tired.

His family was very sad to see him so hot and tired and coughing. They decided to take him to the doctor.

When the doctor saw him hot and coughing and tired, the doctor said “I think that TB has paid him a visit. I know how to make that naughty TB go away”. The doctor gave him some medicine and he swallowed it down. When the medicine was inside his tummy, it started to fill up all the spaces inside him with its good stuff. The medicine made so much good stuff that it took up all the room inside him. TB was squashed by the good stuff and felt so uncomfortable that he decided it was time to leave.

When TB was gone he started to feel better, there was no more coughing or feeling hot or tired. His family was so happy that he was better, that they held a party to celebrate.

The children here love story telling and even the most mischievous (there is one girl, aged three, who likes testing my knuckle reflexes with a wooden car) are attentive. It is strange that in a TB institute, the message the children receive about TB is that it is caught by poor hand washing and a story like this provokes a healthy discussion.

It has been a week since Rafiq started treatment. The side effects from the drugs leave him weak and feeling sick, though the sickness is transient. His body remains unstable but he sleeps better at night. His mother has spent thousands of Somoni over the last 11 months, so MSF now pays for all his investigations and treatment. His body needs to re-build itself and we buy him the local ingredients so that his mother can make him food he enjoys. In a hospital where there are other children who do not as yet get this privilege, it feels unjust to exclude them, but today I have put my personal dilemmas about the role of an NGO aside, because there is no other option for Rafiq.

snow-in-tajikistanToday it started to snow! Though, Rafiq takes up most of my thoughts, an evolving obsession I need to learn to control, the snow is a beautiful distraction. I walked to work and the slim students defy the snow, fashionably dressed in their Beatles outfits, with a carpet of snow dusted lightly on the heads. There is a sense of magic in the air – there is no Santa (there is no obesity epidemic in tajikistan!), but instead old men clustered together to keep themselves warm in their fur hats or turbans or little black caps, and long velvet blue tunics. I walk past the bread shop where a group of them play cards, a daily ritual not disrupted by the cold. Right then, in the morning mist and rising sun, the blue tunics, called ‘Joma’ come alive. The old men, emerging from the mist, with their snowy white beards, look like magicians, as though they will be taken by the wind and turned to snow dust and I love it – a mystical illusion rather preferred to a glossy one.

So this will be Christmas, away from mum’s freshly cooked roti and indian curry. But our team is a cohesive one, one that resembles the family and loved one that I miss so dearly. With my last thoughts about Rafiq, I pray to all the Gods and mystical beings, that he starts to feel better. If anyone deserves a break this Christmas, it is those kids away from their families by no fault of their own, other than to have been exposed to a disease that is polarized to the poor.

The hospital is having a party on 26th January and there won’t be any old man, but an overweight Santa played by our resident logistician, the great Tamas. It is exciting for the kids who I imagine will be happy for any distraction to their institutional lifestyle. The snow is now very thick, and it is beautiful, a sense of peace in this chaotic world. It is hard to hold back my not so dulcet tones singing in true NGO worker John Lenon’s “War is Over” as i crumble my snow boots into the dense snow. I think even I have accepted that Christmas is here and actually, it is not so bad!

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22 Responses to Mystical men and Christmas in Dushanbe

  1. Sengkati says:

    You do the medical prfesosion proud, Kartik. Keep up the great work. I have a 4 year old daughter and it is heartbreaking. Whilst we cant all be there to assist, we will certainly do our bit on Doctors for Doctors Day. God bless and keep safe.

  2. Aghileh and Dougal says:

    Hello

    We Just came across your blog. I love it, Dougal does too. We tried to send you an invite for the wedding but we couldn’t find you. We assumed you had left London already. Do you want visitors? I really love that part of the world. We grew up on stories from that region. Much love, Aghileh (and Dougal)

  3. nusratullo shamsulloev says:

    Kartik.You are a great man.As Tajik people says:. God bless you!

  4. nusratullo shamsulloev says:

    Thanks for everything.You are a great man.As Tajiks says <Mardi Buzurged.

  5. Dana Melvin says:

    Your writing sings with the mysteries of the world. Having lived and traveled for 15 years in Asia, I appreciate your candid capture of the wonder and the trials. Thank you for the work you do and for letting me have a glimpse of your spin on things.

  6. Elizabeth Raskin says:

    Kartik- It is with great admiration that I read your blog. You have an uncanny ability to describe the spiritual and emotional journey that you are on. Our thoughts and prayers go out to you, your team, and the lives of the people you are touching. Keep your spirits high, especially during this time of the year. You are truly doing God(s) work over there. Peace be with you. Elizabeth, a surgeon from Minnesota, USA

  7. Trini says:

    Kartik, you’re an inspiration to all of us. Rafiq’s story encapsulates what this season is all about, caring and peacefully fighting for others. Although we miss you here, we know that Rafiq and his mom (and many others) really need you there.
    Tons of love,
    Trini

  8. angela simonte says:

    Wow! I am stunned while reading your story and all this wonderful comments. Wishing you and all of you a wonderful merry christmas and a happy and healthy new year 2012. Much love and prayers for you Rafiq and his mother. May you be blessed for all what you do and may your heart get stronger and pured out with more love and compassion.
    I admire you and your work I wish I could help you!
    With much love and respect from Germany
    Angela Simonte

  9. Rondi says:

    Kartick ~ Deborah Kandic wrote such a beautiful reply, words that I deeply resonate with. I can’t add much more to what she shared, except to take care, and may you continue to inspire so many others with your work.

  10. Patrick says:

    Wonderfully written piece. It truly brings home the suffering of the poor in Tajikistan.

    Merry Christmas,

    Patrick in Dushanbe

  11. Sonya says:

    You are an inspiration! Keep doing such an amazing compassionate job with the children, bless you & all around you

    Isonya from melbourne, australia

  12. Urvina says:

    Merry christmas. Enjoy the snow. Kids would love to have snow here but mild instead. Hope we can speak soon. Take care of you And loving reading your blogs. Check out EN’s e mag on oshwal website.

  13. Dita says:

    good wishes to you and all the team, and to all those in your care.

  14. Jennifer says:

    Your blog is addictive. Very interesting…wishing a recovery for Rafiq!

  15. Nanne says:

    Thank you for all you do to help the children with TB.Wish you a Merry Christmas.I’m so grateful for all you do.

  16. If only I could gather all the little children, poor sick, alone and hungry in this world today, and make them happy.But throughout this world, are people like you, sir,who stand firm at your post,casting aside your familiar comforts, to bring help to our most vulnerable.I salute you, sir.May your example light a candle in many more hearts, to go forth, and do what you do.We cannot help them all, nor decide their final destiny.But we can minister compassion and aid to those nearby us.Lets all take a moment to whisper a prayer today, for This mother and child, enduring agonising things.Will you tell them, Kartik, that people as many as snowflakes in a storm, wish them well?

  17. Shiella Lim says:

    Kudos to you and for the work you’re doing. A blessed christmas to everyone, dr.

  18. Leslie Lethridge says:

    Thank you for this heart-felt post. It brought back fond memories of a visit/mission to Tajikistan 3 years ago with Habitat for Humanity. The Tajik people are the most gracious and generous folks I have ever met who live vividly in my heart and mind. Thank you for your wonderful work.

  19. Sharon Willson says:

    God bless you for the work you do. Bless the children. I’m a teacher in northern Canada – they all deserve the best. Happy holidays to you.

  20. Claudia Borio says:

    Merry Christmas doctor Kartik!!
    I wish you much success treating the children!
    You are blessed!
    Greetings from Brazil!

    Claudia

  21. David Botha says:

    Thank you for being a living testimony of Gods (Christmas) love to vulnerable children. You are living the gospel of love. And may Rafiq pull it through! Peace to you all!

  22. Paul says:

    Merry Christmas !
    Paul

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